Your Questions About If You Choose To Accept This Mission

October 29, 2012
By

Ken asks…

It’s my Birthday today!?

Just wondered if anyone shared this special day with me!! And your mission, should you choose to accept it is to make me laugh on my Birthday…..GO!!

admin answers:

Signs That You are Too Drunk:-

Your job is interfering with your drinking.
Your doctor finds traces of blood in your alchohol stream.
The back of your head keeps getting hit by the toilet seat.
You sincerely believe alchohol is the elusive 5th food group.
24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case – coincidence? I think not!
You can focus better with one eye closed.
The parking lot seems to have moved while you were in the bar.
You think the Four Basic Food Groups are Caffeine, Nicotine, Alchohol, and [Women or Men].

HAPPY BIRTHDAY

Nancy asks…

Were building a pit in the shape of an octagon, the diameter is 36″. What would the 8 sides measure?

I was given this question for extra credit in a trig class. heres what we were given. “We are trying to build a pit for the college, I need to know if it was a octagon and the diameter is 36″, What would each of the 8 side peices be?”

The mission, if you choose to accept it, is to figure out the length of each side (interior dimension) to the nearest 1/26 of an inch. I also want to know the angles that would have to be cut on each piece, assuming you are constructing it of “2-by” lumber. Thus, you will also need to provide the total length of each side piece, before cutting.

I found it challenging and figured Id share t with someone else let me know what u got.

admin answers:

I just looked the number up in my Engineering Mathematics Handbook:

R/a for an octagon is 1.306563

If R is 18″, then a is 13.7769″

If 36″ is the outside diameter of the pit, then mark 13.75″ on the lumber and bevel the cuts inside at 11.25 degrees (this is an error of 0.02660″, which is less than 1/26th of an inch). If 36″ is the inside diameter, then mark 13.75″ and bevel the 11.25 degree cuts so the lumber is larger than 13.75″ on one side.

Cut 8 identical pieces and nail ‘em together.

.

Carol asks…

Replacing T-stat on HVAC system, old to new and extra wires… hmmmm? oh .. no heat!?

Here is your mission should you choose to accept it… HELP!!!!

It’s not horribly cold out, have back up heaters but trying to change T-stat. I have wired Hydronic boilers so know the new stuff but this retro is kicking my butt.

Older home, 1964 with Electric Furnace and Heat pump for heat and A.C. Old T-stat has Mercury bulbs. Furnis replace about 15 years ago.. appears some wires left dangling.. you will read below.

New Honeywell RTH7400 Series from The Home depot for Furnace/Heatpump, A.C. Jump on me later for that… buy hey.. I’m a homeowner… where else can I go…
Facing new base plate to land wires there is a power strip on the left and one on the right. there are 8-lugs on the left and 3-on the left.

Issues and why tackle now: Last winter the low voltage 5 amp fuse blew, replaced. last week, again 5 amp low volt blew, changed and fired up for a day or two… and blew again. Looked for a grounded wire on low voltage side.. none found… posted on here to replace T-stat so here I am. What complicates is fuse blows when energized so system is basicly down so till I get some wires pluged in to base plate and energize which should not blow a fuse as the T-stat won’t yet be isnerted into base plate…. possibly a ground wire out at Heat pump but I checked… but first thing first.. get these wires landed…

As found, wires coming off top strip on old mercury T-stat:
R=Red, 1 or T? =Brown, G=Green, O=Orange, W=White Y=yellow, X2=Dark Blue, B=Dark Blue for a total of 8 wires.

Wire coming off of control board on Furnise where 5 amp fuse blows that feeds the Old T-stat:
D=(Blank), R=Red, W=White, Y1=(Blank), Y2=Yellow, G=Green, O=Orange, C=dark Blue or Blk? (the dark Blue splits at furniss, one to heat pump-one to T-stat)

Now… issues….
At the furniss the B=Brown wire is cut and not tied to anything, also; one of the Dark blues (2 too old T-stat) is also cut in furniss and is connected but dead at the T-stat.

so.. lets eliminate those two dead wires as for what ever reason (they replaced furniss 15 years ago prior to us moving in… so newer furniss but original T-stat.)

So… the active wires at the wall to install the new T-stat would be:
R=Red, G=Green, O=Orange, W=White Y=yellow, X2=Dark Blue/BLK, (One Brown and Dark Blue/blk wires apear to go to nothing?) This means I have 6 wires to plug in.

The new T-stat has two sets of marking.. those on the innerside of the terminal strip are for “conventional system” and the markings on the outer side of the terminal strip are for “wiring-heat pump” systems… ie… furniss with heat pump on it???
Quesion 1. ) I am susupecting I should use the color coding for the
“outside as there is a heat pump?
Now the new T-stat, the color codes read for heat pump install reads on the left side:
C=Common? color?, G=green, y=yellow, O/B=Orange/brown?, RC=?, R=Red
on the right side it reads: Aux=? , E=? , L=?

Markings on the inside of the power strip are:
C=common, G=Green, Y=yellow, RC=? (jumper to R) R=Red, W2, Y2
Markings on the Inside of the power strip on right are: W2=?, Y2= ?,

so more issues… if I use the color scheme on the inside I have a place to land the white.. if I use the outside there is no white lug…. and on the outside no orange…. ???????

o.k…. what do I need to do to figure this out… remember… furnis is dead… but can energize but if ground is at heat pump it will blow 5 amp fuse.. so need to figure this out with info given…

lets Get er done!
1.) correction: should read: 8-lugs on left, 3-lugs on right side
2.) also on the next page it reads: “alternate wiring (for heat pumps only) … not sure if that means my system… but want both the electric heat and the heat pump so believe that this should not apply to my install, it also addresses V or VR wires.. have no idea on that and believe this is not relevant to my install.
3. The instruction manual calls out differing type of systems, which do I have:

1.) a Single state heat and cool.
2.) Multistage heat and cool
3.) Heat pump with out backup heat
4.) Heat pump with backup heat
5.) Heat only
6.) cool only
Yes, I did call a HVAC guy I know… always have a back up plan man…. just looking for input.
Wires sticking out of wall, new fuse, energized and fuse didn’t blow.. not sure same results one able to start up… but here I sit…

cricket,cricket….cricket,cricket…..
4.) I did have new T-stat wired correctly… the guy came out and said it looked good so we inserted new t-stat, set codes.. would run on Emergency heat but not with heat pump so disconnected that from low voltage and running on e-heat. He suspects transformer or heat pump circuit board, we did a continuety check on all the wires… so on Monday he will come back out and figure the rest out…..
so.. lets review… the Honeywell data is limited… it can’t have all the answers but the stated install time of 15 minutes as noted on the front cover is B.S…. even on a perfect install. The ability to desipher this is beyond the average HVAC people that trvel this site nor are they up to the challenge short of …. call in an expert…. well.. Duh….

As I had figured there were multiple issues, but eliminating a possibility and improving the system makes more sense then sitting there and pumping fuses into a slot that likes to eat and spit them out…

so.. I guess you lose…. you

admin answers:

Your original problem was not caused by a faulty stat, now you have two different problems. Call a professional.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Tags: , , , , , ,

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*